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The India Guide
A designer's guide covering Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Delhi, Goa & Day Trips
A Compilation of My Opinions & Photos
Below is a diary of my favorite spots in India, my recommendations and photos that I've snapped along the way. It is based on four visits (about 3 months total) in the last year. I have only included places I personally have been and all the photography is my own. There are many more spots I want to visit, so the guide will continue to evolve. I hope you find it helpful and fall in love with India as I have.
Why do I spend so much time in India? My brand Beau & Ro produces it's apparel exclusively in our fair trade factory, Olive Workshop which gives me the privilege of traveling to India often! Xx - Sara
P.S. I wear so much Beau & Ro in India!
Jaipur Hotels
There are countless fabulous hotels in Jaipur, many with amazing restaurants and bars as well! Obviously you can't stay at all of them, but add them to your list and pop by for dinner, lunch or a drink!
Rajmahal Palace RAAS
Built in 1729 by a royal family the Rajmahal Palace has since been transformed into a hotel that looks like it was designed by Wes Anderson. This 13 room hotel is where Art Deco meets opulence, complete with stellar service. It's also conveniently located in the middle of Jaipur.
Villa Palladio
The sister hotel to one of my favorite restaurants, Bar Palladio is a brand new gracious country estate, Villa Palladio. A fantastic jewel-box of a hotel, there is nothing like it in the world. Note, this property is outside of Jaipur's city center making it both a lovely escape but also a bit of a drive to get to the best of Jaipur.
28 Kothi
Located in the middle of Jaipur, 28 Kothi is a perfect hotel for travelers who don't want to break the bank, but are seeking an intimate and personal experience. The staff and restaurant at this property are both fabulous. I highly recommend Cafe Kothi even if you're not staying at the property! It is the sister property to the very cool Johri hotel.
The Oberoi Rajvilas
The Oberoi Rajvillas is a beautifully landscaped property with magical architecture and gardens, complete with flaming torches and reflection pools. From the moment you arrive at this property you'll be blown away. Note: it is outside of the city, so a bit of drive to get to the action. That said, it is a peaceful retreat away from the hustle of Jaipur.
The Leela Palace Jaipur
The Leela is a "modern palace" unlike so many hotels that are built in actual former royal palaces. It's a resort-like experience, but about an hour from Jaipur so not somewhere I would recommend if you want to be able to easily experience authentic Jaipur. When I stayed here I added it on to a trip with the intention of just staying at the property for two days.
Rambagh Palace
If budget is not an issue and you're seeking the royal treatment, Rambagh Palace is the spot. Peacocks run wild on the grounds and vintage cars circle the property. This property is open to the public and has a fabulous veranda and lawn for drinks or lunch, along with more formal dining options for dinner. I prefer it for an al fresco lunch.
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Jaipur
What To See
There is so much beauty in Jaipur, but you need to know where to look. Pictured on the right is Patrika Gate, located in the middle of Jaipur. It's worth a quick stop to snap this iconic picture, but other than a photo opportunity there isn't much to do there.
Hawa Mahal
You will likely drive by Hawa Mahal at some point during your stay in Jaipur, as it's located on a very busy main road you'll find yourself on often. If you can manage to pull over and dodge the traffic it's even more beautiful up close and a must see.
City Palace Jaipur
City Palace is still occupied by Jaipur's royal family. I recommend opting for the upgraded ticket that includes a private tour of some of rooms that are otherwise closed to the public, they were by far the most beautiful. The tour concludes at a private rooftop café with amazing views.
Amber Palace
Amber Palace is another beautiful palace worth visiting. I didn't think a guide was necessary here as you can easily explore all the rooms and corridors on your own. It's mostly outdoors and involves some walking so be sure to wear sneakers!
Jaipur Restaurants
The Johri
The Johri might be one of my favorite meals in Jaipur! The gorgeous restaurant is unassuming, hidden off streets only accessible by foot. It reminded me of the riads in the medinas in Morocco which it turns out the owners were inspired by. The Johri is also a five room hotel and the sister property to 28 Kothi.
Bar Palladio
You must go to Bar Palladio if you're in Jaipur! It's pure blue eye candy and the vibe is as trendy as the decor! But still the Italian food and cocktails they serve up are delicious. If you opt for a table outside be sure to take a swing through the gorgeous bar inside as well.
Baridari
Baridari is located at City Palace in Jaipur with entrances from both the palace side and a back entrance. There is a very cool juxtaposition of a modern glass bar structure inside the historic walls of the City Palace. I loved the energy of this restaurant (even on a rainy night) and thought the pizza was delicious too!
Shikaar Bagh
Shikaar Bagh is located next to Bar Palladio, but we just discovered it recently. The bar-restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating and a really fun, relaxed vibe day or night. In addition to good food, we enjoyed the vintage carriages that had been converted into dining tables and the all around tavern vibes.
Spice Court
Spice Court has a pretty courtyard garden and indoor restaurant serving up authentic Indian, along with some other multicusinine options (which I didn't dabble in). If you're looking for some solid Indian food with few frills, this is a good place.
Townsend Bar & Kitchen
Townsend Bar & Kitchen is a newer feeling restaurant giving off serious New Orleans vibes. They have a lively outdoor space, a multi-cuisine menu and fun performances. This isn't necessarily a must-visit in Jaipur, but it is a solid and safe option if you're looking for a casual spot and a break from Indian food.
Jaipur
Where To Shop
Jaipur is by far my favorite city in India to shop in! From amazing artisan finds to high end designers, there is something for everyone! I have even discovered designers that I now have in the shop like jewelry designer Diane Singh, you can shop her in Beau & Ro or at her shop Concept French in Jaipur.
IDLI
IDLI by Thierry Journo is an overwhelming color explosion of elegant fun, merging the best parts of French design with Indian craftsmanship! With fabulous apparel, accessories and home decor this store is top of my list.
Jaipur Modern
Jaipur Modern has a well curated mix of bags, scarves, bedding, and women's and men's apparel from local designers. Plus a very cute garden cafe.
Soma
Teatro Dhora
Teatro Dhora, is a concept store that collaborates with Indian brands to bring together a very cool mix of unique apparel and accessories. Their pieces are elevated and different and definitely worth checking out!
Anokhi
Anokhi is another store featuring lots of beautiful blockprint pieces at very reasonable prices. This shop also has a cute cafe. I highly recommend the cheesecake!
The Bazaar
I don't really have much advice other than to just dive in. I would recommend starting with the Johri Bazaar and the Bapu Bazaar, they're connected. Be prepared to negotiate!
The RAAS Jodhpur
OMG this hotel was cool. RAAS Jodhpur is a fusion of modern and ancient styles. It's in the middle Jodhpur’s old town, but wildly tranquil considering.
Amazing food, a beautiful pool, and views of the illuminated Mehrangarh Fort make this hotel a magical experience.
Stepwell
The Stepwell is a beautiful ancient well that has recently been restored. There are a couple cute shops and cafes clustered around the Stepwell. Grab a coffee or cocktail at Stepwell Cafe and watch the locals below swimming. Another restaurant next door was in the process of opening while we were there and it also looked really cute!
Antique & Handicraft Shopping
What Jodhpur lacks in fashion it makes up for with tons of cool antique and handicraft shops! We hired a tuk tuk through our hotel for the day to take us around and we discovered some very cool stores that way.
Mehrangarh Fort
The Mehrangarh Fort sits 400 feet above the city of Jodhpur and offers really beautiful views of The Blue City. Wear your walking shoes.
Jodhpur
Where To Shop
Aside from handicraft and antique stores, I didn't find a ton of great boutiques. That said, right beside the Stepwell is Royal Blue, an adorable shop with unique styles and a fun assortment for men and women.
Udaipur City Palace
Pattern & Print Overload
The City Palace in Udaipur is the largest palace in Rajasthan. Built on the lake it is convenient to visit if you're staying at any of the big hotels on the lake. The palace has so many beautiful prints and patterns to see, I found it so inspiring! There are lots of twists and turns to explore, but we did not get a guide and I don't feel like we needed one.
Udaipar Hotels
The Taj Lake Palace
It's hard to say one of these three hotels is better than the others, because they're all magical, but my vote is 100% for Taj Lake Palace. Located in the middle of the lake, this hotel was the former "pleasure palace" of the Udaipur royals and is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Book the spa for a couple massage if that's your thing!
The Oberoi Udaivilas
The Oberoi is just as impressive as the Taj, but it's a newly built. It is a sprawling resort oozing luxury, lush gardens and top notch service, but doesn't have the authentic quality that the Taj does, having served as a real palace in the past.
The Leela
The Leela is also located on the lake with gorgeous views. Also more recently built, the Leela has a more modern vibe than the Taj and Oberoi, with a beautiful waterside restaurant.
Ambrai
Where To Eat in Udaipur
Aside from the three palaces listed above, we only went out to one restaurant, Ambrai, and it was fabulous. Despite a casual vibe, this spot has incredible views, live music and delicious food. I highly recommend it!
Delhi Hotels
The Leela
The Leela is synonymous in India with luxury and the one in Delhi is certainly that, but at the same time there is nothing exceptionally memorable about it.
The Imperial
The Imperial doesn't pop as the most popular hotel in Delhi, but it is by far my favorite. Every restaurant is top-notch and memorable and the spa is incredible. Each detail feels special and grand, but also comfortable. It's hard to explain but it is opulent and boutique at the same time.
The Oberio
If diplomats stay at The Leela then international businessmen stay at the Oberoi. It is modern and lux and has everything you'd want in a 5 star hotel, but like the Leela in Delhi it isn't a hotel I feel compelled to go back to.
Delhi Restaurants
Tonio's
I love Tonino's. It's such good Italian food in a really cozy place. If you're looking for a break from anything skewing Indian this is the spot. If you're looking to reset into a comfort zone in the middle of Delhi chaos this is it.
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Chica
Chica is sceney. The food is really good, but we requested a table outside because we couldn't hear each other inside. It's worth checking out if you're looking for a trendy almost clubby vibe.
The Spice Route
Every restaurant in The Imperial Hotel is 10/10, but the The Spice Route is an experience. The decor is over the top and the food only makes it better. Definitely a must if you're staying at The Imperial, but even if you're not it's worth the visit.
Style Mile
High End Shopping
Style Mile is awesome for discovering the most beautiful designers India has to offer. Amongst these high end boutiques are lots of very cool restaurants and bars.
Delhi Restaurants in Style Mile
Olive
Olive has restaurants all over India and I love every one that I've been too! The Olive in Delhi is really special. I've been a few times and it never disappoints! Go on a night when you can sit outside in their beautiful courtyard.
QLA
If you're in Style Mile and can't get into Olive or ROOH then try, QLA. I was underwhelmed but people seem to really like it, so we may have just ordered wrong. The atmosphere outside was great, so I would give it another try in the future.
ROOH
ROOH is a great vegetarian restaurant. Make a reservation as it is really popular, but for good reason. We sat on the ustairs level patio with a gorgeous view of Qutab Minar illuminated at night.
Khan Market
Khan Market, is a lively shopping district with lots of great restaurants. The shopping is more western and priced more affordably than the high end brands in Style Mile. I would reccomend a visit if you're in Delhi and be sure to walk through the pedestrian-only center street, pictured here. There is so much to explore in Khan Market and discovering it is part of the experience, so I've called out just a few of my favorite shops and restaurants below to give you a jumping off point.
Shopping in Khan Market
Town Hall
Town Hall is sushi and really really good, maybe the best sushi I've had in India, though that isn't saying much. It's located upstairs in Khan Market and you could easily miss it if you we're looking for it.
Latitude°28
Latitude 28 is a small, cozy cafe in the heart of Khan Market. They are a go to for Italian pastas when in India!
KLAP
KLAP has really good seasonal tapas, everything we tried was excellent. The restaurant is new and well designed, though a bit noisy, so a little tough if you're with a group, but still worth a visit!
Delhi Restaurants in Khan Market
Manan
Manan is a beautifully designed store, selling mostly easy breezy linen pieces that are perfect for the Indian climate most of the year!
Good Earth
Good Earth has locations all over India. The Khan Market location is three levels with home decor on the first floor, apparel and jewelry on the second and the cafe on the top. It is pricey compared to a lot of shopping in India, but so unique and special, I always end up making a splurge here.
Ranna Gill
Ranna Gill is luxury wear and they carry dresses, sets, pants and more. All in beautiful prints and fabrics.
What to See in Delhi
Lodhi Garden
Lodhi Garden is surprisingly peaceful considering it's in the middle of busy Delhi. Interesting tombs and seasonal gardens make it a lovely place to spend a morning.
Qutub Minar
It's a great place to visit at night before dinner from 7 until 10 pm. The Qutub Minar and other monuments are entirely lit up.
Dilli Haat
Dilli Haat is a colorful market with lots of artisans. There is a small entry fee which makes it slightly touristy but also more manageable than some of the other markets.
A Note on Gurgaon
The Tech & Factory District
Gurgaon is located outside of Delhi and is a tale of two cities. On the one hand it is the home of Cyber City and on the other it is also a huge industrial factory district and home to our factory Olive Workshop. The ITC is a fun resort to stay in if you have a reason to be out in that direction.
Goa
Sunsets & Beaches
I've been to Goa twice. Once many years ago and then again this past January. Both visits were very special, but very different. Southern Goa is more chill and northern Goa is full of trendier restaurants and hot spots.
W Goa
A Very Fun Hotel Recommendation
From the moment you arrive at the W Goa and walk into the open air lobby with a DJ spinning behind the reception desk you have no choice but to be in vaca mode. It's a perfect mix of relaxed chill beach vibes and pool party chic... pick your adventure!
Goa Restaurants
Palm Grove
The concierge at W recommended we hire a car to take us up the coast to Palm Grove and it was worth the drive. A hard to spot sign on the side of the road led us down a path to a quaint beach resort and restaurant. We enjoyed a dip in the ocean in between cocktails.
Thalassa
Thalassa is a big Greek restaurant on the beach. Make a reservation because it gets jam packed. The food is okay, the sunset is incredible, the scene is lively.
Olive
The Olive in Delhi holds a special place in my heart, but the Olive in Goa takes it to another level! The same delicious food with a more coastal flair paired with insane sunset views. We went for dinner and loved it so much we went back for lunch.
The Taj Mahal
No real explanation needed here. It's an easy detour if you're driving from Jaipur to Delhi. We woke up super early to beat the crowds and I reccomend that. We hired a guide here which was great because he not only shared history but also took really fun photos at the right angles that didnt look super crowded or touristy!
Neemrana Fort
Another fun pitstops on your way to Jaipur from Delhi is Neemrana Fort. The fort has been turned into a resort and it is quite impressive. We didn't stay here but I get the impression it's better for a lunch stop than to actually stay over. An entry fee gets you in and a hike to the restaurant above the pool leads you to a complimentary buffet lunch with just a handful of other hotel guests. We thought the food was great and the view is even better.
Tijara Fort-Palace
Two hours from Delhi is Tijara Fort-Palace which is another fun excursion to a revamped fort with awesome views. We did a photoshoot here, so not sure what the protocol for day visitors is, but I would call ahead before you show up for lunch! Sometimes these big resorts have weddings and won't allow you in!
Snaps from our photoshoot at Tijara Fort-Palace
Other Tips!
- Do not drink the water. Brush your teeth with bottled water. Complimentary bottled water will be offered anywhere you stay.
- And on that note, do not eat street food. It is just not worth the gamble. Trust me, I have lost.
- Get a driver, it's inexpensive and will save you so much headache.
- Consider hiring guides when visiting tourist destinations. They provide context, avoid crowds, and take great photos
- Monsoon season isn't necessarily a bad time to visit. Fewer crowds than peak season and less heat than late spring and summer.
- India is big country, but in general summers are hot and winters are chilly. Pack accordingly.
- Be prepared to experience extreme luxury and extreme poverty.
- Make eye contact with drivers when crossing the street, or just don't cross the street.
- However long you think you should allow for the airport, double it.